The first light of dawn paints the rolling hills of the Catskill Mountains in soft amber, and the quiet road that leads to Casa Susanna begins to stir. Travelers who arrive after a night’s drive find the historic wooden façade bathed in morning mist, a subtle reminder of the era when the resort first welcomed a marginalized crowd. The building, modest in scale, carries the weight of stories that unfolded within its walls during the 1970s and 1980s, when it became a sanctuary for trans individuals seeking acceptance far from the city’s glare.
Inside, the common room retains its original low‑ceilinged charm, with faded wallpaper and a fireplace that once warmed late‑night conversations. Frequent visitors note that the atmosphere still feels intimate, as if the very air remembers the “glorious, even life‑saving, company of other people like them” that Sandy Ernest Allen described. The sense of belonging that emerged here was not merely social; it was a vital support network that helped guests navigate personal transitions in a time when resources were scarce.
Practical insight one: the most convenient route to Casa Susanna is via Route 28, which threads through the heart of the Catskills. Parking is limited, so arriving early in the morning secures a spot close to the entrance. The resort operates on a reservation‑only basis, and as of the time of writing, rooms can be booked through its modest website, which offers a handful of private cabins and shared dormitory spaces. Travelers are advised to bring a reusable water bottle and sturdy walking shoes, as the surrounding trails invite exploration of nearby waterfalls and historic farms.
Practical insight two: the optimal season for visiting is early autumn, when the foliage turns to a palette of ochre and crimson. During this period, the temperature settles into a comfortable coolness, ideal for evenings spent around the fire pit. Local eateries in nearby Woodstock serve farm‑to‑table dishes that complement the rustic setting, and a short drive brings guests to the Ashokan Reservoir, a tranquil spot for kayaking or reflective solitude.
Beyond its physical comforts, Casa Susanna continues to host occasional gatherings that honor its legacy. Community groups occasionally organize panel discussions on trans history, inviting scholars and elders to share narratives that might otherwise fade. Those who attend these events often remark on the profound sense of continuity—a bridge between past struggles and present advocacy.
The surrounding Catskill region, with its rolling valleys and historic rail‑towns, offers more than scenic beauty. A short ride to the town of Saugerties reveals an art gallery housed in a former mill, while the nearby Catskill Mountain Railroad provides heritage train rides that echo the travel experience of earlier decades. These attractions enrich a stay at Casa Susanna, allowing visitors to weave the resort’s intimate story into a broader tapestry of regional culture.
As the sun sets behind the peaks, the firelight flickers across the porch, and the quiet hum of crickets fills the night. Visitors who pause to listen can almost hear the lingering laughter of those who once found refuge here, a reminder that places of safety can become landmarks of collective memory. Casa Susanna stands not merely as a lodging option but as a living testament to resilience, offering contemporary travelers a glimpse into a pivotal chapter of trans history nestled within the timeless Catskill landscape.
